bikin mobil tambah ngacir (RACING ABIS...)

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penting bikin mobil tambah ngacir (RACING ABIS...)

Post by xX||X-Generations||Xx on Wed Sep 05, 2007 11:44 am

ni ada informasi dari gw, mudah2an berguna....

First of all, before you start modding anything, please do us a favor by modding yourself before you endangering both yourself and others. Loe bisa modding your driving capability by ikutan defensive driving course, Sprint rally, slalom, etc.

Buat occasional weekend Slaloms or track racer, loe ga perlu gahar banget sampe special setting alignment, camber, caster, etc. Although, I admit masalah settingan suspension itu penting, but IMHO itu buat yg sampe professional banget. Gua saranin loe-loe yg interested ikutan Slalom, ke sentul, etc, mendingan setting chamber, alignment, caster di stock setting. Ntar down the road, kalo loe kurang sreg loe bisa setting lagi.

Modifying suspension and brakes itu essential banget BEFORE loe start modding your engine. Masalahnya kalo engine loe kenceng and ga bisa handle weight transfer, brakes, etc loe itu in a grave danger!

Step 1: suspension mods.
install coilover kalo budget loe cukup. budget pas-pas'an loe ganti shocks and springs. pasang swaybar both front and rear. kalo loe ngerasa chasiss boil loe masih kurang kaku, baru loe pasang strutbar. strurtbar yg penting itu dipasang di front, jgn rear nggga terlalu perlu kecuali loe sering keluar kota or sering ke race track or loe sering slalom. inget, pake yg bagus'an for your own safety.
recommended springs: H&R, Eibach, HKS, Tanabe, JAMEX, Intrax, R*S dll.
recommended shocks/damper: Tanabe, Tokicko, Billstein, HKS, KYB, KONI, Ohlins, Tein Dll. .
Jgn lupa Pasang sturt bar atau swaybar..

Budget: (Approx)
Coilover: USD$800 to USD$2200.
Springs: USD$110 to USD$320.
Shocks/damper: USD$120 (non adjustable) to USD$475 (both for adjustable and non adjustable).
Swaybars: USD$20 to USD$430.
Strutbars: USD$20 to USD$275.
(strutbars lu bisa bikin custom juga, di tukang knalpot)

Step 2: brake mods.
kalo di sini , boil sedan pake tromol buat rear brake'nya biasanya mobil di Indo 1800cc kebawah, mendingan ganti brake depan and belakang pake discbrake sekalian ganti calipers'nya menggunakan yang lebih besar. kalo mau ganti, sekalian brake lines'nya ganti pake yg either teflon or steel. tujuannya biar pas loe perlu sudden brake, brake lines loe itu ngga ngembang. kalo loe udah ganti brakelines loe, brake fluid loe ganti pake yg DOT4 or DOT5.1 jangan lupa brake shoes (sepatu rem) loe ganti pake yg bagusan.
recommended brake lines: A
recommended discbrake,brakeShoes and calipers :BREMBO,Project MIU,Endlles, AP Racing etc..

*Warning: If converting from DOT 3 or DOT 4 to DOT 5 it is recommended to rebuild the whole hydraulic system. Or at least flush the previous fluids completely, as any contaminants would be hazardous to the system operation.*

Budget: (Approx)
From USD$100 (brakeshoes only) to more than USD$4000 (for a complete brake set such as, BREMBO).

Step 3: engine mods (mild to hardcore).
loe bisa mulai dari cold air intake, header, freeflow exhaust. and loe naek ke polish intake manifold and exhaust manifold kalo loe ngerasa kurang.

the next step would be, loe engine rebalance. rebalance semuanya mulai dari crankshaft, cylinderhead, flywheel, camshaft (kalo mau diganti ya ngga usah di rabalance), pokok'nya semuanya.

next, loe bisa ganti camshaft loe, both intake and exhaust of course! ganti camshaft biasanya orang complaint "kok idle boil gua jadi batuk-batuk alias rough" ya itu soalnya gearing'nya ga bener nge'set'nya. kalo ganti camshaft, sekalian loe ganti camgear'nya, of course, both for intake cam gear and exhaust cam gear.

next, loe bisa ganti valve springs loe. ini tujuannya biar opening and closing'nya lebih cepet. alias, engine response loe lebih bagus.

next, injector boil loe musti di re-balance and di re-calibrate. tujuannya, buat supaya ngebalance between fuel and air consumption and ngilangin detonation.

next, kalo loe udah praktekin semua yg diatas. engine loe itu udah gahar. nah loe uadh maen setengah force induction. sekarang loe baru bisa pasangin fuel pressure regulator and sekalian pasang fuel rail.

jangan lupa juga ganti oil pressure regulator and oil pan. engine makin kenceng, butuh pemasukan oil yg lancar.

next, ganti clutch loe pake yg competition. sekalian ganti semuanya, mulai dari ballbearing, clutch plate, sampe pressure plate (matahari).

next, nah loe baru boleh ganti ignition boil loe (kabel busi) and sekalian busi'nya juga. soalnya engine loe sekarang itu udah kenceng and butuh pembakaran yg bagus.

**jgn lupa loe resetting or recalibrate engine ECU loe. jgn maen ganti chip or apa. loe reset dulu ECU boil loe. caranya gampang. setelah loe pasang semua performance parts boil loe and loe udah testdrive, baterrey (accu) boil loe negative'nya loe lepas and loe biarin selama 20mins to 30mins. or kalo bisa sampe engine boil loe cool. makanya buka aja engine hood loe biar engine loe cepet dingin. nah kalo udah loe reconnect lagi negative baterrey nya and udah gitu loe test drive, tapi jgn soft nyetirnya. loe musti sedikit gahar. tujuannya itu biar ECU boil loe belajar lagi characteristics engine boil loe and driving style loe.**

Pasang Piggyback, Ato Stand Alone ECU..

next, loe bisa naekin compression kalo loe mau maen N/A (normally aspirated). kalo mau maen FI alias force induction, compression sebaiknya di turunin.

sekarang kita bicarain N/A. naekin compression loe bisa cuman ganti packaging or bahasa indonesianya itu paking. ganti both yg bagian atas engine loe and bottom'nya juga sekalian.
nah step terahir ini maen hardcore. loe udah maen FI. loe bisa pasang supercharger or turbocharger.

kalo pasang supercharger, loe ga perlu aneh-aneh with settingan engine loe yg udah di modified pake cara diatas yg gua udah terangin panjang lebar sampe jari gua cape ngetiknya. tapi kalo loe pikir masih kurang "uhmph"'nya ya loe bisa naekin psi boost di supercharger loe. caranya very easy, loe ganti aja pully'nya. pake yg kecil, otomatis boost psi'nya bakalan naek and makin gede boost boil loe. biasanya supercharger maen di 5psi to 6psi. bates aman kalo mau naekin psi and masih bisa enak dipake jalan hari-harian loe bisa naekin boost loe up to 10psi, max.
paling sip kalo loe pasang supercharger, loe pasang juga intercooler. tujuannya biar udara dingin yg diambil ama supercharger loe.

other option would be, loe pasang turbocharger. pasang turbocharger ngga segampang yg orang bilang. loe sebaiknya turunin dulu compressin engine boil loe. seberapa banyak turuin copressionn'nya ada rumus'nya and gua ga ngerti. loe musti consult ama Bengkel tempat langganan loe.

kalo loe pasang turbo, loe sekalian pasang turbo timer, turbo boost controller, BOV (blow-of valve), pop-up valve, intercooler, boost regulator, boost gauges, exhaust temperature gauges, injector regulator gauges, water pressure regulator and gauges, etc.
contrary to most ignorat indonesian riceboy believe, BOV itu dipasang bukan buat suara "chssssssssssss" yg keren. bukan, tujuannya BOV itu dipasang buat ngebuang boost yg ngga diperluin and otomatis protect turbo loe.

kalo loe pasang turbo and supercharger, loe mendingan sekalian di dynotest. supaya loe dial up boost'nya pas and ngga ngerusak engine loe. both turbocharger and supercharger bisa prolong engine life loe kalo loe nge dial boost'nya and settingan engine loe itu bener and pas.

Budget: (Approx)
From USD$1000 to unlimited. Do I hear, got some money burning on your pocket?

i might miss something, but until i find out what did i miss, i'd say...that is all...


Soalnya kalo mau detail banget harus muter-muter ke Toko/bengkel sendiri.
(harga tidak mengikat)

Modifikasi mesin
Light:
-Filter K&N, Yakuza, dll-------300rb-1jt
-Kabel busi 8mm ke atas--------300rb-500rb
-Koil--------------------------500rb-1jt
-Ignigation MSD, dsb-----------750rb-2jt
-Fuel pressure Reg.------------1jt-2jt
-header DC sport, dsb----------1jt-5jt
-freeflow exhaust 5zigen, dsb--750rb-4jt

Medium:
-Polish in-ex------------------2jt-5jt
-Camshaft----------------------2jt-7jt
-power pulley------------------2jt-3jt

Rather Heavy:
-Balance engine----------------2jt-10jt or more

Heavy:
-New engine--------------------20jt-100jt or more
(depend on type of engine)
-Supercharger------------------20-30jt
-TurboCharger------------------20-50jt


Suspension:
Per h&r, tanabe, tein, dll-----1jt-5jt
Shocks-------------------------5jt-10jt
Adjustable Shock---------------9jt-25jt
Air shocks---------------------10jt-20jt
Hydrolic Shock-----------------30jt-50jt
Strutbar-----------------------1jt-3jt
Swaybar------------------------1jt-3jt

Brake:
DiskBrake----------------------4jt-10jt
Caliper------------------------5jt-12jt
ABS----------------------------Do we need ABS?

catatan: secanggih apapun mobil kalian.... kalo pengemudinya ga bisa menyesuaikan kendaraanya.... sama aja boong

semoga membantu deh..
==========================================
edited by : SuperMod
reason : by u request...

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penting Re: bikin mobil tambah ngacir (RACING ABIS...)

Post by rock2bestar on Thu Sep 20, 2007 10:59 pm

gw prnh pake turbo/NOS, tp katanya ga efektif kl dipake di udara Jakarta.

Tanya dong, emang ngaruh ya udara, suspensi mesin ama ketahanan mobil utk drag sama untuk standar racing (seri N maksudnya)?

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penting Re: bikin mobil tambah ngacir (RACING ABIS...)

Post by Unregist on Fri Sep 21, 2007 10:10 pm

turbo na brapa kapasitasnya bro..???

Unregist
Tamu


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penting Re: bikin mobil tambah ngacir (RACING ABIS...)

Post by Sponsored content Today at 6:08 am


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